Red Pillar 5.5- A “not to be missed” climb for its grade

Okay- here’s the scenario…you’re making the approach from the carriage path at 8:30am thinking you’re early enough to jump on High E, but two other parties are parked at the base.  Your backup plan was limelight, but it’s taken by another High E hopeful.  You’re not quite ready for the thin 2nd pitch of arrow- [...]

Moonlight 5.6- guaranteed not to disappoint

Okay- think back to Christmas morning when you were a kid…There was that big box that held what you knew could possibly be Castle Grayskull; there was that smaller soft package that was probably unwanted socks.  You push through the shirt shaped boxes, the expected toy cars, candy, etc…but over there… just out of sight, [...]

Horseman, 5.5 Gunks Classic

A classic is a classic is a classic- is that what they say? Hell, I don’t know, but if you head up to the Gunks, don’t miss out jumping on Horseman, a three star Gunks Classic any day of the week. The start to horseman takes you through the wonders of passive protection, giving you [...]

Minty, 5.4 Gunks classic

Ever eaten a Girl Scout Thin mint cookie, swallowed it, and then thought to yourself- “that was quite tasty…I think I’ll have another one”? Well, one may be able to describe the accessible and fun 5.4 climb, Minty, in the Gunks the same way. This climb is often categorized as a fun beginner’s climb, but [...]

Route review: Betty, 5.3, the Trapps

(5.3; 2 Pitches, 150ft)
You’ll probably hit more traffic on Betty then you did on your drive to the Gunks, but don’t let that take this route off your to-do list.  Climb a one foot wide crack up the first half of the first pitch to a ledge.  From there to the belay ledge the [...]